SMS Outings and Safety Policy
From "Safety and Training for Ski Mountaineering,"
Approved by the Angeles Chapter Safety Committee November 1980, updated January 2002
Download the entire text as a PDF file (requires Adobe Acrobat Reader).
Summary of SMS Policy
The SMS operates under a written Safety and Training Policy. This policy includes the leadership and training system using the historic Sierra Club Ski Tests, and also includes the requirements of Sierra Club and Angeles Chapter outings policies. The policy also covers ordinary outings (hikes, peak-bags). The following is a paraphrased summary. See the policy document for actual wording.
- Skill and Equipment Requirements
- These shall be made known to participants before the outing.
- Leadership Requirements
- One principal leader shall be in charge, with at least one assistant.
- Leaders shall be listed in the outings announcement.
- Leaders shall be qualified (rated) to lead the outing.
- Leaders shall be capable of conducting the outing and handling emergencies, and shall handle all permits and releases, inform participants of the meeting place, and provide any other needed information.
- Participant Requirements
- Leaders shall screen participants for skills, conditioning, and equipment.
- Leaders shall have the authority to reject unqualified participants.
- Outing Conduct
- The leaders shall conduct the outing to enhance safety.
- Participants shall cooperate with the leaders.
- The leader may terminate or modify the outing for reasons of safety.
- All participants shall sign in and give an emergency contact.
- Leaders shall keep the group together.
- Group size and camping restrictions shall be observed.
- Unless excused by the leader, no one shall leave base camp or the roadhead until everyone is accounted for.
- Personal conduct shall follow the Angeles Chapter Rules of Conduct and be consistent with SMS bylaw requirements for an attitude of harmony and cooperation among members.
- A suitable first aid kit shall be carried.
- Accidents, Illnesses, Emergencies
- At least one person shall stay with the injured while others contact leader.
- Participants shall cooperate with the leaders and remain with the group.
- Responsible authorities shall be contacted if necessary.
- The leader shall direct search and rescue efforts until authorities arrive.
- All accidents or incidents shall be reported to the Angeles Chapter Safety Chair.
- Transportation
- The Sierra Club is not responsible for transportation to and from an outing,leaving that to private, voluntary arrangements or licensed carriers.
- Insurance<
- Leaders and Central Committee shall verify current insurance coverage before the outing.
- Classification of Outings by Skill Requirements
- All SMS ski tours shall be rated T (Technical) (even if easy).
- Hiking and similar activities shall be rated C (Conducted), O (Ordinary), I (Intermediate), M (Moderate), or E (Exposed), according to Angeles Chapter policy.
- Qualification of Leaders
- Leaders shall be appointed by the Central Committee with the concurrence of the Angeles Chapter Safety Committee.
- Ski tour leaders shall be rated T (Technical), and shall be qualified as follows:
- SMS T-rated ski leaders shall be members of the section. Non-members may lead other outings.
- SMS T-rated ski leaders shall have at least an Angeles Chapter I rating.
- Candidate leaders shall have at least one season's ski-mountaineering experience including two or more overnight ski tours.
- Candidate leaders shall have exhibited technical knowledge and experience equivalent to the requirements of the Sierra Club Ski Mountaineering Test.
- Candidate leaders shall lead at least one overnight experience tour and one other tour, each involving at least 1000 vertical feet, with a qualified assistant as observer.
- Qualification of Participants
- Participants shall have appropriate experience or training for the planned outing.
- As a minimum, ski tour participants shall be capable of passing all requirements of the Qualifying (Sierra Club Fourth Class) Test. Leaders may waive this requirement for very easy tours (such as track skiing or flat touring), or may require a higher level of skill for difficult tours.
- Participants shall check out on an easy tour before participating in an overnight or difficult tour, unless known to the leaders.
- Equipment
- Equipment shall be suitable for skiing steep slopes, unless waived by the leader for easy terrain:
- Skis shall be designed for downhill capability and shall have full-length metal edges.
- Bindings shall permit heel lift for uphill travel.
- Bindings with latched heels shall release at both toe and heel.
- Boots shall be designed for skiing steep terrain and shall be sufficiently rigid to provide control.
- Ski retention straps shall be used. with no exceptions.
- Climbing skins shall be carried on all tours, even if waxes are used.
- The leader may require the carrying of shovels, avalanche probes and cords or beacons.
- Ski Tour Conduct
- Each tour should begin with an equipment check.
- Participants are expected to turn back when the leaders do, unless permission is given for two or more to continue.
- A skier who returns ahead of the main group shall follow the incoming route unless prior arrangements have been made.
- Group leaders shall not permit anyone to become separated so far from the group as to ski alone.
- Routes shall be chosen to avoid avalanche hazard.
- Particpants shall ski separately across questionable slopes using cords or locators while observed by the other members of the party.
- Training Training shall be provided in skiing and ski-mountaineering skills. Elements of the Ski Mountaineering Test required for leadership qualification may be passed as follows:
- Skiing Ability - The Advanced (Third-Class) Test may be passed on an advanced tour, with the prior concurrence of the leader.
- Navigation - Navigation training shall meet the requirements for the Angeles Chapter I rating, plus the submission of a week's ski tour plan.
- First-Aid and Rescue - Candidates shall hold the required proficiency cards, and demonstrate rescue techniques in the field (two-ski sled).
- Snowcraft and Avalanches - Candidates shall attend an approved field seminar, and participate in a simulated rescue.
- Snow Camping, Use of Equipment, Peak Climbing, Coping with Snow Conditions - To be demonstrated on the required overnight experience tours.
- Credit for prior experience may be given.
- Actual field training and experience in first aid, navigation, and avalanche safety is required.
- Qualification of Training Leaders
- One leader may judge a skier at the qualifying level.
- Two leaders must concur at the advanced and expert levels.
- Elements of the Ski Mountaineering Test shall be judged by leaders or agencies recognized by the Central Committee or the Angeles Chapter Safety Committee, as appropriate.
- Administration
- The policy shall be administered by the SMS Outings and Safety Chair, who shall review and approve outings plans, submit outings writeups to the Chapter Schedule, prepare any required instructions, and maintain lists of qualified leaders and participants.
- Restricted Trips (Added 2002)
- Trips requiring the use of certain mountaineering gear for safety (usually ice axes on trips rated M and E) may be restricted to Sierra Club members.
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