This trip was a classical ski mountaineering adventure: A winter peak ascent on skis. We were five SMS'rs, three of whom were also members of the California Mountaineering Club (CMC). Since the SMS does not permit peak climbs with ice axes (the only safe way) it became an official CMC trip. Ironically, few of the climbers ski (the only way to travel in deep snow) and no other CMC people joined, making it essentially an SMS trip. Besides these quirks of clubs we had a great time, as the report shows. I had won the Pear Lake Hut lottery with 5 spaces over a long weekend. On Friday morning, we (R.J. Secor, Bahram Manahedgi, Mark Vogt, Alan Franz, and me) met at the Lodgepole Visitor Center to pick up the hut key and wilderness permit.
At lunch time we were at the Hump (9,500') when the clouds of the next storm rolled in. We skied past Heather, Aster and Emerald Lks, and took the low level trail to the hut due to potential avalanche hazard. Everyone carried beacons and shovels and we had a pair of radios between the first and last in the group which invariably got spread out due to different skiing/climbing rates. By 3:30pm, in a growing winter storm, we reached the cozy Pear Lake Hut (9,200') where the backcountry ranger Jeff had already fired up the stove. It snowed all night long, dumping another 2 feet of fresh snow. Saturday was our planned peak ascent. Got up by 5:30am, saw heavy snow fall, went back to bed. By 8am someone discovered a speck of blue sky. An hour later, I was ready to leave the hut with Alan and Mark to break trail to Alta Peak. The sun broke through and we seemed to have a window of opportunity for a peak ascent.
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There we left our skis, ascended with ice axe, and climbed a short section of cl3/4 icy rocks to the summit (11,204'). All along our ski ascent we watched the growing clouds and gambled who would win on the summit. Well, it was a draw: Wind, whiteout and snow flurries greeted us on the summit so that we were disappointed and started our descent asap.
![]() ![]() We were so lucky with our winter peak ascent which fitted just in between two winter storms. After some hot tea in the hut, the telemarkers (Alan, Mark, Jeff and I) carved the virgin snow south of the hut before we all settled down for dinner in the hut. Another group of skiers, scheduled to arrive by Sat pm, never made it up in the deep snow. Dinner was a delight, Bahram shared some Persian specialties with us, and we toasted the climb with my vodka from Moscow. Around the fireplace, Bahram shared his world philosophy with us, R.J. gave us a sample of sarcasm, the rest played cards or loafed around. It was another night of continuous snowfall. Sunday morning we cleaned the hut and skied out by 9am. Normally, it's a
pleasure to ski down, but in 3' of heavy new snow it's a real workout.
Ranger Jeff showed us a shortcut to the Hump, and everyone shared in the
arduous trailbreaking.
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